Windwhistle Warren

GUINEA PIG CARE NOTES


1. These notes are just a brief resume about guinea pigs. I am by no means an expert and if at any time you are unsure about your guinea pigs health please take it to your vet. As prey animals guinea pigs are experts at hiding signs of pain and can deteriorate very quickly. There are certain vets who specialise in small furries so it is always worth making enquiries, the rescue you adopted your piggies from should be able to recommend a suitable vet.

2. Food and Drink

a. Guinea pigs need access to food all of the time. Their dry food should be one especially developed for guinea pigs which contains added vitamin C, they need fresh hay daily, and also enjoy a portion of daily fresh food. Each guinea has his own preference to fresh food and the following list of suggestions is by no means exhaustive! Tomato, cucumber, corn on the cob, beetroot, carrot, celery, strawberries, grapes, melon, banana, parsley, coriander, spring greens and sprouts. They also enjoy pieces of apple and pear, but only allow them small pieces as the acid in the fruit can cause sores at the sides of their mouths.

b. However I have usually found their favourite food to be grass, dandelions, clover, groundsel, preferably nibbled by themselves in a safe shady run on a warm summers day!

c. Guinea pigs should always have water available; this is usually best supplied in a water sipper bottle. As guinea pigs are unable to produce their own vitamin C I try to supplement their intake by adding some soluble vitamin C powder to their fresh water each day.

3. Housing/ Husbandry

a. Damp can kill guinea pigs as they are very susceptible to bronchial illnesses therefore if they are kept outside their hutch must be weatherproof and draught free. In the winter months, if at all possible, their hutch should be moved into a shed, porch, under a carport, in the shelter of a wall, somewhere more protected from the colder elements.

b. Some guinea pigs are kept as house pets all year round and some spend the warmer months outside and when inclement weather conditions arrive they move inside.

c. The number of times we clean our pets out is not set in concrete. I aim to do mine every other day, disinfecting the hutch at least once a week and use hay and newspaper as bedding. Straw is too sharp for guinea pigs and can poke them in the eye, and sawdust can cause eye/respiratory allergies.

4. Common Ailments

a. Mites/mange. I often find these in neglected pigs that come in, but these skin complaints can occur in our much-loved pets too. The most common reasons for them appear to be lack of vitamin C, or mites picked up from hay. As mentioned above you can add vitamin C to their drinking water, if you only have small packs of hay any mites present can be killed by putting the bag in the deep freeze.

b. These illnesses are so debilitating; they show themselves by dandruff/flaky skin or hair loss. The poor little pigs suffer so much and injure themselves by desperately scratching and biting at their skin; they are in so much pain and discomfort they cannot even bear the pain of a fellow piggy brushing against them. I have taken in a guinea pig who only had hair on his head, this is how bad it can get and they still hang on to life. If not treated eventually they become so distressed and ill, they have seizures, and are unable to eat or drink.

c. If your guinea pig is under the weather he could start to suffer from one of these skin complaints simply because his immune system is low. I have also noticed that in a group of guinea pigs only one will appear to suffer from it although it is necessary to treat them all as they can pass it on to each other, I have also noticed that it appears to be Abyssinian or Rex type pigs who seem more prone to these illnesses.

d. Ask your vet to treat your guinea pig with ‘ivomectin’, which is administered orally, or directly onto their skin. This is a much kinder method of treatment than injections.

e. Also see the shampoos and oils available at www.gorgeousguineas.com. These really sooth and help piggy feel more comfortable quicker. The web site also explains about these illnesses and various treatments very clearly.

f. Teeth Problems. Please take your piggy to the vet if he goes off his food, salivates, dribbles, develops eye infections or abscesses.

g. Feet.Their claws will need trimming from time to time. Also check their feet for signs of soreness.

5. Playtime

a. Gentle, yet inquisitive little animals piggies love igloos and tubes to scamper through. It is always a good idea to have little separate areas such as this so pigs can choose their own territory to inhabit if they have minor differences of opinion!

b. Social animals piggies should be kept in pairs or small groups, piggies living on their own can get very bored and depressed. Even if they can see and talk to another pig nearby this is better than them living in solitude. If your pig is left on his own another option is that he becomes a house pig, at least then he will have the comfort of humans around!

c. In the warmer weather there is nothing better for piggies than access to fresh grass in the shelter of a safe run with sunshade. They can then have the option of basking in the sun or nibbling at will - perfect!!

6. Pairing With A Rabbit

This combination rarely works so the easy answer is please don’t! Rabbits have strong hind legs and even if they love their pig companion if they are startled the piggy could be on the wrong end of a kick. Some rabbits attack their companion, particularly if the rabbit is not neutered, and can actually kill them. I have also witnessed situations where the guinea pig leaves rather nasty deposits on the rabbits fur. This hardens and can cause the rabbit pain by tearing at its skin.

7. Will My Guinea Pigs Fight?

a. I wish I could give you a definitive answer to this question! The following are the pairing/ groups of guinea pigs you may have.

b. All female. If you have taken these on as a pair or group they are unlikely to start spatting, particularly if they have been together for a period of time.

c. Neutered male with female/small colony. Again, if an established group it would be most unusual for discord to occur. Ideally groups should not be larger than 5 as the natural pecking order which occurs could leave some piggies at a disadvantage.

d. (1). Two non neutered males. Litter brothers together from birth are the best suggestion, but even in this pairing problems can occur. Neutering one, or both, of the males can help matters. I have usually got a pair of males together of my own, and they live really happily. Some males start to spat if the scent of females is around, if you have pairs of both sexes always handle the males first so they don’t get too hormonal!

(2). It is also possible to introduce a baby male to an older male. If the male has been used for breeding purposes it is unlikely he will accept another male and will need to be neutered if you wish him to have company.

e. I have tried to pair a neutered male with females and one of the sows got most annoyed, I have even had the instance when a neutered male would not accept sows. If your piggies show signs of fighting, split them up, it is not worth the risk. And as they are such social animals if you are not able to pair them up with other pigs you may have the situation where they can still communicate with each other albeit through wire. At least this way they will not be so lonely.

f. Introducing new members to the colony/pair. Ask your local rescue to assist in this if you are at all unsure. It is best if they initially meet on neutral territory, a grass run on a warm day is perfect! If this is not possible put plenty of juicy nibbles in their meeting place, their natural inclination to nibble will detract from the other pig(s). If the piggies ’purr’ this is fine. Any chattering of teeth and you are on to a no go situation and it is best to part them immediately.

8. Wheeks And Squeaks - What Is My Piggy Saying?

Garrulous little beings, one of the most enjoyable things about piggies is that they talk! Piggy listeners will soon pick up different noises and learn to identify their meanings.

a. Contented clucking means just that. They squeak away quite happily to each other. A mother clucks away to her babies almost as reassurance.

b. Teeth chattering - anger.

c. ‘Brrrr’, nervous.

d. Long high pitched squeal, fear or pain.

e. A crescendo of high squeaks from them all together means they have heard you coming and want FOOD NOW!!!!

f. A deeper throated brrr along with an Indian dance around the other piggy is dominance. This is more usually associated with neutered boars to his sow, or perhaps between two boars.

9. I understand that peoples circumstances can change and if at anytime you are unable to keep your guinea pig (s) or care for them as well as you feel they ought to be, please return them to me for re homing.

Recommended Books/webbies:

Guinea Piglopaedia, written by Margaret Elward and Metter Ruelokke, Ringpress Books, ISBN 1-86054-251-4, price in region of £7.99.

The Really Useful Guinea Pig Guide, by Myra Mahoney, Kingdom Books, ISBN 185279127 - b, price in region of £5.








Sadly deceased now, Peter Gurney has left some lovely books to read about his beloved guinea pigs. There is also his own web site listing various ailments/treatments etc, at www.oginet.com/pgurney/index.html.

www.rngp.org - a really great web site run by another rescue in Rugby. Tracy has helped when I have had an ‘overflow’ of piggies in the past. She is passionate about their welfare and her webby is a great source of additional tips and care advice.

www.gorgeousguineas.com, as mentioned at paragraph 4.

Alice Chamberlain (01452) 760404

last updated April 2007